This Italian beauty has all the vintage characteristics including a plexiglass crystal, and from what I can tell it appears to basically be a PAM00372 without the trademark Panerai half-crescent crown guard, and with a Marina Militare dial designation instead of a Luminor Panerai. It also features sharper pencil hands, which differ from the PAM 372 hands.
Panerai's choice of the dark chocolate natural strap was superb. This gives the watch a serious vintage vibe that plays beautifully off the base dial.
Panerai formally introduced this watch at the Watches & Wonders trade-show in Hong Kong, which is now the sister trade-show to SIHH, which occurs annually in Geneva. The Watches & Wonders show is relatively new, but the idea is that it it allows Panerai and all other Richemont brands the ability to not have to introduce all of their new models annually at SIHH. Instead the can divide it up, and Watches & Wonders is focused more on the Eastern market, whereas SIHH is focused more on the Western Market. I covered this years SIHH trade-show live from Geneva, Switzerland and tie was absolutely fascinating.
To a large extent, the beauty of this model, as witnessed in the photo below, which gives us a slightly off-angle front view, is that it really shows off the beautiful symmetry and balance of the cushion case. This watch is such a Winner!!! The more I look at it, the more in awe I become!!! THIS is the real Panerai DNA that give Panerai is pure magic...
In The Flesh
Below is a photo of the actual PAM 587 in the flesh, which was taken recently.
Inevitably Paneristi will compare the new limited edition PAM00587 with the existing standard edition Panerai PAM00372. From what I can tell from analyzing the photos, the bodies are extremely similar, with the difference of the lugs being beefier on the 587, as well as the crown-gaurd v. the big 8mm crown. As I mentioned earlier, the hands on the PAM 587 are different, and a not only arguably more authentic but better in design. Specifically, some people have argued that the hands on the PAM 372 are too short, especially compared to the hands on the vintage Panerai Reference 6152 it is based upon. The the hands on the 587, are not only longer, but also sharper looking, which synergies perfectly with the late Art-Deco Populuxe design style of the dial and case, which reeks of 1950s masculine style.
The 587 also looks sharper, cleaner, longer and leaner, simpler, more streamlined, and less chunky than its sibling 387. In my opinion, the PAM 587 is a pure and absolute Minimalist Masterpiece, and it looks less affected, contrived, and obvious than the 372. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE the 372, and wear one, but the 587 is an example of less, really being more. The 372 is more Sylvester Stallone/Rambo, and the 587 is more Cary Grant/James Bond.
–Leonardo da Vinci
So what does this mean? As much as I love my PAM00372, I still am crazy about the PAM00587!!! It is so weird how similar they are, but how different they are at the same time!!! There is kind of a Yin/Yang balance between the two vintage Panerai styles, that is almost kind of Zen-like, to mix metaphors ;-)
The suggested retail price for the 587 is $10,100.
In order to properly contextualize the significance of the advent of this new model, I decided to add some previously published material that originally appeared on Jake's Panerai World in a little over a year ago in August, 2013. This next story covers the model the Panerai PAM00587 is based upon. At the end of the story I will add another side by side comparison.
Let's begin with a side by side comparison of the original vintage Panerai next to the new model. On the left we have the Reference 6152/1 next to the modern PAM00587. Obviously the PAM387 has a stunningly warm and beautiful dial and hand color combination. Some people say they think that giving new watches a more patina'd look is inauthentic, but I could not disagree more. I think it is like a beautiful suntan.
Notice the PAM 587 "MARINA MILITARE" dial designation uses a slightly larger font, which makes it just a tad bit more legible. On the 6152/1 on the left, we see the "M" in "Marina" is to the right of the 11 baton marker, and on the PAM 587 ins is definitely further over to the left. Also, the 587 "MARINA MILITARE" dial designation is etched into the sandwich dial, and it is colored similarly to the ecru lume and gold hands. Ironically, the original 6152 has the hands found of a modern PAM 372, but I like the sharper pencil hands on the new PAM 587.
In my mind, the objective of Panerai today is not to make reproductions of vintage Panerai watches, but to take the best characteristics of their design features, and to present them as beautifully as they can. Ironically, as much as I like the original vintage 6152, I prefer the look of the new 587...
In my personal opinion, Panerai has done an excellent job with the design of this beautiful vintage inspired new limited edition model!!!
The photos below show this beauty from both side views of the case. The first image below shows the 8MM Rolex BREVET winding crown. Keep in mind that Rolex made this watch for Panerai, which explains why the winding crown has the Rolex five-finger hand winding crown.
In my personal opinion, the only vintage Panerai watch ever made, that is more beautiful that this, is the super-iconic Radiomir Panerai Reference 6154 "Small Egiziano" which was made for the Egyptian Navy. The Panerai 6152/1 and the Panerai 6154 are remarkably similar in case design, but the 6154 is skinnier and even more streamlined that the 6152/1.
The next image below shows the Panerai 6152/1 with the case-back removed, and it appears to have a movement cover which may have been designed to improve anti-magnetic performance.
Pictured below we see the inside of the screw-out case back, which has twelve sides. Notice inside is says "Montres Rolex S.A., Geneva, Switzerland, Patented. Stainless Steel. Swiss Made. 6152 1.